Pierpaolo Picciolo has been named creative director of the renowned Spanish couture house Balenciaga, the latest in a series of moves across the upper echelons of the fashion industry. This marks a pivotal moment in the French luxury conglomerate’s broader effort to stabilize and reposition its flagship fashion houses after a tough 2024.
The appointment of Pierpaolo Picciolo comes after the departure of controversial former creative director Demna to Gucci in March. Under Demna, Balenciaga became known for a ‘memecore’ approach to high fashion, creating novelty garments from towel skirts to handbags shaped like coffee cups.
Piccioli, 57, joins Balenciaga after a 25-year tenure at Valentino, working as the label’s sole creative director for nearly a decade. At Valentino, the designer was widely known for his vibrant color palettes, including a bright pink that became his signature, as well as wide, floaty dresses that expanded the house’s appeal to younger generations.
In 2024, the group reported a 12 percent drop in annual revenue, with widening loses at Gucci, as well as a slowdown in momentum at Bottega Veneta at Saint Laurent. Both Gucci and Bottega Veneta have recently witness creative director transitions.
With Pierpaolo Picciolo now taking the helm at Balenciaga, the group seems to be pivoting towards a more romantic, couture-inflected sensibility in contrast to the conceptual disruption that defined the Demna era, Less streetwear, more high fashion.
This appointment signals a notable recalibration in Kerin’s strategy. Francesa Bellettini, Kering’s deputy CEO and head of brand development highlighted Piccioli’s couture credentials in the company’s announcement, underscoring a desire to reaffirm Balenciaga’s historical association with craftsmanship and high fashion rather than controversy-led virality.
Francesca Bellettini, Kering Deputy CEO in charge of Brand Development, said: “I couldn’t be happier to welcome Pierpaolo to the Group. He is one of the most talented and celebrated designers of today. His mastery of Haute Couture, his creative voice, and his passion for savoir-faire made him the ideal choice for the House. I would also like to sincerely thank Demna for the bold, distinctive vision he brought to Balenciaga over the past ten years, shaping the House’s identity in the contemporary era. I am convinced that Pierpaolo and Gianfranco will lead Balenciaga perfectly through this important new chapter of its remarkable history.”
Balenciaga will unveil its first collection under Mr. Piccioli during Paris Fashion Week in October.
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